The rise and Fall of the FryE Campus Boot
"We need it now!" said the consumer, and with a flick of their wrist, "Geminio!" said the fashion industry.
When I think about the trend cycle in America, I cannot help but feel irritated. The quickness with which we plow through a 'moment' is one of the strangest phenomenons I've seen, experienced, and unfortunately been part of. It's a vortex with no center; you just get pushed and pulled until, as Miranda Priestly says, you land in a "pile of stuff."
It seems we've lost the art of enjoying. Many poets would say to "stop and smell the roses," but we can't even stop to look at them long enough to realize they are dying. The roses are dying, but don't worry, we got the photo-op to "prove" we enjoyed their decay.
I know I'm not alone in this sentiment. Most people feel angry at the mindless consumption we've normalized, with easy access to shopping from Amazon, TikTok Shop, Temu, and countless other platforms. It's been a topic of discussion since my introduction to the fashion industry in 2017. We see it. We want it. We click it. We get it…in about 3-5 business days. (Or subscribe for $99.00 to get next day shipped tomorrow.)
Unfortunately, for many people and companies today, consuming and producing have become just as natural as breathing. Let me be clear: I don't mean this in an "I've never participated" way, but more of a "wow, I was also a victim of the cycle, and I've woken up" way.
Legends Never Die
This summer, I noticed a new funnel in the sky as many influencers and young fashionistas discovered the ultimate classic: the Frye Campus Boot. Since 1863, Frye has been leading the way for quality-crafted boots. I won't go into their history in depth, but ultimately, Frye can be associated with craftsmanship, quality, and timelessness. If you would like more information, you can access their heritage page here. I, myself, have coveted these boot and resonate fully with the style.
The lure of the campus boot isn't hard to justify. It's not quite western, not quite city. There's a rebel attitude and effortless wearability to the chunky sole, tall calf, and beautiful cracked leather. This boot makes you feel edgy, carefree, and ultimately unique. Without going too far to one extreme, you can allow your feminine slip dress to whisper, "I have an edge." Just the right amount of defiance without being too off-putting.
Where do we draw the line?
Consumers and stylists weren't the only ones to notice the need to be "unique." Many fashion companies also wanted to explore iconicness.
While I do not deny the Frye boot is expensive, I've never spent $498 on a pair of shoes, and I do recognize the argument that people should be able to access affordable, stylish clothing (Another discussion we can pin for a later time), I merely want to focus on the timeline of how quickly MULTIPLE companies created the same variation of this boot. A boot that has been around since the 1960’s, if not longer.
In a matter of 2 months, you could find this style at whatever price point fits your budget. Hundreds of replicas were mass-produced in a matter of weeks. Even when searching the boot, you can see the common phrase associated with it.
Unsurprisingly, Amazon Vendors, Boot Barn, Steve Madden, Free People, and Jeffery Campbell all created their own variations in a matter of weeks since the trends arrival last summer. There are probably more to add to the list, but these brands always jump out to me as being the quickest to produce a ‘trending’ style.
In the last 10 years or so, these companies have provided consumers with an effortless way to obtain 'affordable dupes' of more middle-market luxury styles. Do I agree with this? Not entirely, but I expected it nonetheless. There are always going to be "affordable" replications of any design.
Not so Honorable Mentions
There were, however, some standouts in the mix of all this consumption. Some of the most ethically questionable reproductions (to me) came from companies that advertise and promote their brand on a foundation of ethical production. Alohas, Reformation, and Seychelles all love to make their consumer feel that their decision to shop there impacts the planet positively - otherwise known as green-washing. I've been following these companies for a while, so when I witnessed the launch of their version of the Campus Boot, I was instantly confused for many reasons.
First….
Is a production sustainable if a company can mass produce hundreds of a singular style in 6-8 weeks? Probably not.
If a company creates a shoe at a similar, if not identical, price point to the original, is it really necessary to produce it? Or is it a quick revenue-boosting tactic, and they hope the consumer won't notice? EW.
These brands are established, well-funded and not lacking in creative talent….so why did they copy-paste?
Personally, I would have preferred the company save the materials or at least produce something unique to its own brand. Make the sole an accent color, give the pull-on tabs a contrasting material. SOMETHING that puts your companies own “spin” on the style. It's okay to take inspiration from iconic legends, but let's use the resources to at least bring a touch of authenticity to the design. Fashion is inevitably a cycle; no one can argue against that, but we've lost the art of inspiration and take design too literally to be authentic.
In artistic fields, students copy masters—it's how you learn—but when you enter the world of 350 million dollars in revenue, you can no longer claim yourself a student. As a consequence of your success, it's time to stop copying the masters.